Picture Supply: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Options LLC

Again once more on the massive display since its first cinematic installment in 2019, earlier than the world turned the wrong way up, the Crawleys of “Downton Abbey” and their in-house employees are but once more delivering class, intrigue, and fashion of their second movie, “Downton Abbey: A New Period.” The brand new film picks up the place the final ends, set on the finish of the Roaring Twenties in 1928 earlier than the world slides into a world financial despair.

Very a lot wanted in a world at present grappling with despair and grief, the movie feels decidedly extra joyous and humorous than the final film and far more than the sequence that introduced the English property’s inhabitants into our houses and hearts. There may be fairly a little bit of journey to go round too, from a marriage to a trip within the South of France to the doorway of Hollywood movie stars making a film inside the film.

An epic enterprise reminiscent of this throughout a world pandemic required the experience of a fancy dress designer who already knew the Crawleys and firm fairly effectively. So, costume designer Anna Robbins was again on the head of wardrobe after costuming the sequence’s final two seasons and the primary movie.

“The forged and crew are like a household, and it was a beautiful expertise working with them once more,” Robbins tells POPSUGAR of engaged on the second film. “We have been all excited and grateful to have that chance anyway, however for it to be throughout a pandemic made it particular otherwise as a result of we have been capable of see each other and work. The pandemic positively made it tougher as a result of we needed to function in a really totally different method. There have been a variety of impacts on the costume division, however we have been capable of overcome all these challenges.”

Photo: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Features LLC

Picture Supply: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Options LLC

None of these challenges reads on display from the beginning, when the viewers will get to affix within the pleasure of Lucy and Tom’s marriage ceremony to kick off the film. “It was wonderful and a privilege to get the prospect to design a bridal look inside Downton,” Robbins says. “It positively comes with a sure strain since you need to make it good and do the character justice with this very particular robe. Realizing it was the opening scene for the movie, we knew we wished to have an impactful search for Lucy’s costume, but additionally for the congregation we have been seeing within the church that have been each upstairs and downstairs. Everybody was of their finery, so we have been in a position to have a look at shade and actually compose the scene in order that all the colours have been harmonious.” There have been so many individuals on display on the ceremony, so Robbins actually had her work minimize out for her.

For Lucy’s beautiful robe, Robbins was impressed by {a photograph} of a 1928 Chanel costume and one other fashion illustration from the time. “What I used to be actually drawn to was an uneven hem and frothy layers of tulle,” Robbins says of the piece. “I wished to offer the sense that it was actually recent, up to date, and leading edge for the time. I wished it to really feel like Lucy might actually collect up her skirt and have dance on the reception, so there was a form of ease and relaxed vibe to it. From there, it was about creating drama with a low again, a lovely boat neck with chiffon, and silver embroidery laid over the satin, so you’ve got received a lot of pretty performs on texture.”

Lucy additionally wears some unbelievable jewellery that’s genuine to the time interval, together with a diamond and pearl tiara and a lovely Van Cleef & Arpels diamond brooch that she wears on her bodice. “It was a fantastic costume to design and a beautiful method of introducing Lucy on this new world that she’s publicly a part of,” Robbins says. “We have been actually capable of categorical her persona by way of her clothes in a method that we hadn’t been capable of do as a lot in her wardrobe as a girl’s maid within the first movie.”

Although the film solely strikes ahead one yr from the primary movie, there are notable adjustments as everyone knows model can change drastically in a yr’s time. And there have been definitive shifts between the fashions of the ’20s and the ’30s that have been already shining by way of within the seems of rich girls like Girl Mary. “She has all the time been very leading edge and forward of the time with regards to her model,” Robbins says of Michelle Dockery’s character, who works with film director Jack Barber to show his silent movie staged on the property right into a speaking movie. “We have been taking a look at some Nineteen Thirties silhouettes along with her, and that was actually thrilling.”

Robbins additionally styled Girl Edith in trousers for the primary time as she turns her South of France vacation into a piece journey the place she covers the brand new palatial dwelling that’s bequeathed to one in every of Downton’s youngest. She performed on the rise of pajama units in actual life on the time, which have been popularized by fashion designers like Paul Poiret and Callot Soeurs within the area.

“Inside Downton, that timeframe, and within the higher courses, there was an enormous quantity of etiquette when it got here to what it’s best to put on and when,” Robbins says. “Touring is not any exception to that, so you’ll journey in a touring swimsuit and also you’d have your hat and your gloves in your bag. We began off in Yorkshire, so we had touring fits achieved in an English method. The burden of the suiting on the gents was tweed, and the hats have been felt.”

Then, when the Crawleys and crew arrive on the villa, you see them transition to their South of France wardrobe — a very thrilling and shocking flip as we have but to see the household this relaxed and sun-kissed. This reveals by way of with lighter materials and a softer shade palette, with the ladies in pinks and yellows and the boys in cream-colored linen. “We launched Robert in separates, which is a very pretty look that I had been ready to do,” Robbins says of the Downton patriarch. “He was in a Grenadier Guards blazer with separate trousers, together with a grey trouser to depart after which pale, fawn-colored trousers when he arrived on the villa. Little issues like that present they might’ve had an outfit for each event and state of affairs. He nonetheless arrives as this quintessentially English gentleman assembly this quintessentially French gentleman.”

Photo: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Features LLC

Picture Supply: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Options LLC

And in case you have been questioning, there have been actual similarities in dressing between the aristocratic courses in several international locations on the time, particularly between London and Paris. “The principles within the South of France are far more relaxed, as this can be a place the place individuals are beginning to trip within the top of summer season on the time and the pajama set brigade are girls who’re carrying trousers,” Robbins says. “Menswear is getting extra relaxed with the double-breasted swimsuit jacket coming in to dispense the waistcoat, which might’ve made them rather a lot cooler. The Crawleys displaying up with a small portion of their employees is a way more stripped-back and relaxed setting on the villa, which is a pleasant distinction to Downton.”

However the Crawleys and their beloved employees aren’t the one characters making waves this time round, as two Hollywood film stars are thrown into the combination: Myrna Dalgleish and Man Dexter. “It was a fantastic alternative to design for these actually fascinating new characters who got here from utterly totally different backgrounds and have an thrilling potential to push the boundaries of the storylines and with how they costume,” Robbins says of the duo who flip Downton Abbey right into a Hollywood film set. “I had a very nice codesigner on this movie named Maja Meschede, and we labored fairly carefully on Myrna’s seems. Maja got here up with this stunning costume for her arrival which sums up who the character is and what we wished to do along with her. She’s wearing very icy colours, although she warms up a bit of bit all through the movie.” Myrna is full-on Tinseltown glamour, with cuffs, exaggerated necklines, and a definitive “extra is extra” vitality. Meschede and Robbins regarded on the Hollywood stars of the time, together with Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, and Marlene Dietrich, to create her jaw-dropping ensembles.

Photo: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Features LLC

Picture Supply: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Options LLC

The film additionally takes a somber flip, with Downton matriarch Violet Crawley, Dowager Countess of Grantham, passing away. The second performs out over a pair scenes, with the household congregating in her bed room for her ultimate breaths and goodbyes after which her funeral, which is a transferring and regal affair. “I needed to design the seems realizing they might work collectively in a variety of totally different configurations and throughout a variety of totally different scenes, ending up on this very intimate area,” Robbins says concerning the first scene with the household. “The palette needed to really feel harmonious with nothing leaping out inside it.”

For the funeral, nearly everyone seems to be in black, however a few of the employees are in muted colours of grey and brown as they might not have had a black outfit for the event. “It was about realizing what these characters would’ve had, so a few of them would’ve worn their Sunday greatest,” she says. “A few of the characters have been carrying the identical look to the marriage firstly as they have been to the funeral on the finish. We wished to characterize their characters by way of costume, however we wished totally different textures, materials, detailing, and equipment, so we might add curiosity.”

General, this second “Downton Abbey” film feels extra open-hearted and joyous than any earlier chapter of the saga. “We’d like the enjoyable, laughter, and uplifting moments now greater than ever,” Robbins says. And this film delivers all the aforementioned in spades.

Picture Supply: Ben Blackall / © 2022 Focus Options LLC

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